The finish line is a week
away and we have 2,000 kilometres to go, much of it along dirt roads and
through the jungle with river crossings and cocaine bandits. It's not that
we're not up to the task. It's not that we're concerned if the mototaxi can make
it (we’re pretty sure that we’ll spend plenty of time getting it fixed in any case). It's
the simple math of covering that much distance at a maximum of 35 kilometers an
hour and still making it in time for Pisco Sours on Saturday a week from now.
Sitting around the table with
Leo and Cesár we discussed the option of getting a lift
back as far as Lima, from where we could head south under our own steam and
possibly make up some of the time that we'd lost. Weighing up our alternatives, like Von Schlieffen, we decided to go to Plan B (seriously, don't worry
about this bizarrely obscure reference - ed.) and head back to Lima and on
towards Cusco.
It was at this point the full benefits of the mototaxi
as a mode of long distance transportation finally became clear to me. This
adventure is not about the destination, not about being first or last over the
finish line, but about the journey. As frustratingly unreliable as the mototaxi
is, it is in many ways the perfect adventuring vehicle. Here’s why: although we prepared
ourselves for superficial repairs, brake cables, flat tires, oil changes and
the like, each time we broke down something had failed catastrophically and
we were forced to find help. And each time we found help we found the nicest
people. People that through their own good graces gave us the time to put us
back on the road. The minimalist, unsupported nature of this trip has given us incredibly rich insights into life in Peru. A view we would not have had any
other way.
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